This is no cruise. This is an excursion. Anja Erdmann, our German guide and the head of the cruise liner’s Expedition Team, fills us in on what is what the moment we step on board Hurtigruten’s MS Fram. Penguin expert Manuel Marin, who is also in charge of getting everyone’s bags to their cabin, is not at all worried when my bag containing my toiletries goes missing, and instead assures me that I won’t be needing makeup on board. Cabin 524 was also far from a suite, being much more similar to a cell for cruise masochists.